“Women, in Color” by Neela Vaswani
1.
I had a neighbor whose husband shouted. I suppose the husband was my neighbor too, but I didn’t want him to be.
Once home from work, he let loose, shouting between Hindi and a Garhwali dialect I couldn’t follow, a few phrases settling in my ear: the apathy of women, dinner criticism. Sometimes he read the newspaper outside on a grey metal chair. He shouted there, too. It’s possible he was capable of shouting and reading at the same time, but more likely the newspaper was a prop. When he went to sleep, the quiet was sudden. The clink of my neighbor washing her pots at the outdoor tap sounded spacious and free.
I was there—on a single street two miles above a small town in the foothills of the Himalayas—to teach for a few months in a village school run by a local NGO. I was also there in an attempt to tend to some mid-twenties grief and confusion. In New York, I had an unfinished dissertation, a fiancé, who would, in two years, be a husband, a waitressing job, a teaching job. I needed to remember something essential to myself and I thought living and working in service to children in the town of my grandmother’s raising, in the quiet of the world’s highest mountains, might help. My newly constructed rental apartment was last on the lane, a bicycle width’s space between it and my neighbor’s mud-walled home. I have never lived anywhere more glorious. But even surrounded by raucous monkeys and birds in dialogue and those glinting, snow-faced peaks, my neighbor’s husband shredded my peace. I slammed doors in protest, paced with vengeance, went to bed with headaches. And I wondered at my neighbor and her outward equanimity.
She moved through her days as if the husband was background to her story. From what I could tell, she and I differed in economics and education and aligned in gender, religion, and physicality: if I had taken off my glasses and dressed differently, we might have been mistaken for sisters.
Whenever we passed in the lane, she flicked her eyes at me in greeting. I would scan her face for bruises that did not exist. She was small and lithe and walked fast, her braid keeping time in the swale of her back. She looked too young to have children gone from the home and too old to be childless in India.
In the mornings, while I drank tea and reviewed lesson plans, she milked a beige cow. As an ingenious locating device, she had painted her cow’s horns hot pink. Even before I heard the sound of the bell around the cow’s neck, I would see her pink horns flashing through the trees. In the evenings, as I ate dinner, my neighbor appeared at the front of her home with chapatis for the local pack of wandering dogs. Sometimes the oldest dog—white with stretched-out teats and a patient face—pressed against my neighbor’s legs.
And still, the husband shouted.
She moved through her days as if the husband was background to her story.
I never heard my neighbor respond to him. In fact, in three months’ time, I never heard her voice at all. Once, I heard her laugh—a joyful, raspy sound like a spigot turned on, then off, in drought—as she watched the white dog flop on her back to scratch an itch. And once on a festival day, some women came by and collected her, bundling her into their fold. As they swept down the lane in a flood of bells and chatter, I thought I heard another voice added to their mix, but could not be sure.
Twenty-five years later, what I recall best is her clothing: gagra cholis, traditional blouses and skirts with simple cuts—her colors an insurrection. Every day, flaming from her home like the flag of her own private country. Declarative, amplified, insubordinate.
Two sets I remember:
-a skirt like a pile of limes on fire, with a canary yellow dupatta wrapped around a cotton candy blouse.
-A neon orange and purple skirt paired with a blouse like hammered metal, hemmed in a deep, ecstatic blue. The dupatta—poisonous-frog-green—knotted for efficiency.
At dusk, I would sit behind the apartments near the laundry line at the edge of the lane to watch the distant cloud-topped peaks as they soaked up the waning light. The mountains grew dark and hulking and upside-down triangles of sky slotted into the range, flooding with purple and orange. I felt the sunset all through me. Out there with my neighbor’s gagra cholis, her dupattas end to end, underlining horizon. Dimming the hibiscus. The husband inaudible.
One morning, as I left my apartment and walked to catch the bus to the village where I was teaching, I noticed the grey chair outside my neighbor’s door had been painted hot pink. My neighbor was sweeping her stoop. I said, “Aapki coursi acchi lag rahi hai.” Your chair is looking good. She dipped her head in agreement, kept sweeping. The white dog, panting in the shade, had a thick pink stripe along her flank as if she had made contact with my neighbor’s paintbrush or the drying chair.
I stayed at the school for two weeks, and when I returned to the lane, my neighbor’s husband was sitting on the chair. It had been re-painted grey. He was holding a newspaper in front of his face.
And shouting.
I kept still, dizzy from the effort of not hurling the grey chair with him on it.
There was a bird, singing. Mountain. Wind. Slash of sunlight through the tossing leaves of ancestral trees.
I saw my neighbor in her lime-on-fire gagra choli scorching the street in my direction. Vivid with silence, purposeful as a blade. When she passed by and flicked her eyes at me, the air between us rippled. The wind was oceanic, but suddenly it disappeared, as if I’d rounded a corner into an epic quiet. It was clear to me then that it wasn’t only the husband’s shouting that my neighbor would not allow to diminish her. It was also her dislike of his shouting. I understood her silence as an audacious choice to create her own peace. I understood her silence as a victory. Her voice and wildness, intact in color.
That dusk, I sat under the laundry at the edge of the lane, facing the high peaks. The sunset a golden rip in the sky. My neighbor’s clean clothes fluttering soft. I let what was outside, in. Peace as my heartbeat’s throughline. Chosen. Resolute.
A week later it was my last morning before going home to New York. When the husband left for work, I went over with my brightest wool shawl—spring leaf green. The white dog escorted me, trotting, her teats swinging, the streak along her flank still there, hot pink.
I let what was outside, in. Peace as my heartbeat’s throughline.
My neighbor was pounding dried corn. I asked her if she would like the shawl, saying it would be warm in winter; she evaluated the texture then draped it around her neck, dipping her head in acknowledgment. She went back to pounding—the semi-circle of deep yellow corn fanning around her—as I wished her health and happiness and thanked her for teaching me. I remember she looked at me with an amused kindness reserved for children or naughty housecats.
2.
There was a time in my thirties when I lived in a New York City hospital. I was not a patient but a caregiver for my husband who had acute leukemia. I slept next to his hospital bed on a camping cot I’d brought from home. I covered it with a set of hospital sheets, hospital blankets, one rare hospital pillow—all white. The walls of our many rooms over the years were a murky beige, as if color had been bleached out, along with, maybe, MRSA. C-diff.
In this hospital, down the center of each room, was a grey curtain dividing us from a roommate, and at the center of our side of the curtain was a wheeled plastic table with a faux wood-grain top that raised and lowered over my husband’s bed. The tabletop was crowded with things routinely supplied upon admission: a small blue and white box filled with credit card sized tissues that shredded when wet. A red satin eye shade stamped with the name of the hospital. A plastic bucket, plastic pitcher, and plastic kidney-shaped vomit basin that was useful as a pen holder (no one has ever vomited that little)—all the same shade of pale pink: a monopoly, purchased in bulk, easy to wipe.
Once, I removed everything hospital-issued from our tabletop, dumped it in a bag and shoved the bag under my cot. I left out our books, bandanas, radio, pens, water bottles so there was nothing that wasn’t ours visible. While I was helping my husband in the bathroom a few hours later, every hospital-issued item reappeared on the table, replaced with automatic, well-meaning, assassin swiftness.
During the first year of my husband’s illness, we lived in the hospital for stays of ten days to five weeks. We didn’t often get the window side of a room. In darkness, we marked time by medications, bags of blood, shift change. On slow, IV-tethered walks, we squinted in shafts of sunlight as if constantly exiting a movie theatre.
Mornings, I greeted the nurse’s aides with eagerness, asking about the weather, their breakfast and commutes. Knowing there had been delays on the 6, or the C had gone express made me feel like I was still a New Yorker. When an aide wore candy cane or tulip earrings, it helped me remember to say Merry Christmas or Happy Spring. I treasured the individualities of scrubs: teddy bears, rainbows, polka dots. And pins on scrubs: Pride flags, koalas, F#*K CANCER.
Conversations with staff went deep: a sister’s cheating boyfriend; a cat lost in the Haitian earthquake; voter turnout in Kerala. We all had a fondness for each other, a recognition of community in a hard place. Every day, I changed my husband’s sheets and towels, cleared his and his roommates’ meal trays, and scrubbed their bathroom, burning off some anxiety while easing the staff’s work. The nurse’s aides were tender with me and laughed big at my husband. Even when he was too ill to speak, he would hear them coming and ready the three parts of his body they required, timing his show to their entrance: right arm out from under the sheet for blood pressure; left index finger held aloft for pulse ox; mouth comedically open for thermometer.
The nurse’s aides were tender with me and laughed big at my husband.
Towards the end of our first year living mostly in the hospital, a churning of discontent infected the floor—a palpable current as we walked past the nurse’s station or quiet chats between aides. Then one day all the aides came to work wearing the same color scrubs: bright blue. All the nurses wore forest green. No one had any jewelry or pins.
I asked an aide what was going on. She said the hospital was conducting a trial week of scrubs color-coded by job—no accessories allowed. A uniform mandate. When I asked why she shook her head, pursed her lips. I said, “What about the doctors and PAs and pharmacologists?” “Nah,” she answered. “They can wear what they want.” We raised our eyebrows at each other. Some bureaucratic decision made by someone who had never actually worked or lived or suffered in a hospital, who didn’t understand what very ill people care about: who listens, who smiles, who gets the arterial blood gas needle in on the first try.
The rest of the week was bleak. Blue scrubs, green scrubs, no sparkly pins or funky earrings. An uneasy peace the day things returned to how they had been. Then, postings around the hospital: a permanent change of uniform would be implemented in one month’s time. Mandatory color-coded scrubs for nurses and nurse’s aides. No jewelry, no pins. An injunction. A squashing of identity. I remember, after a long stay inside, seeing the notices on our way out of the hospital, and feeling angry and glad to be leaving.
And then we were admitted again. For one of my husband’s neutropenic fevers, the fever of a person with leukemia whose white count has been purposefully decimated in hopes of a cure. It was the week the uniform mandate went into effect, though I had forgotten.
The first few days, not everyone complied. Some nurses wore their own scrubs. Some aides wore jewelry. Small revolts, soon quashed. One day, I saw nurses with pins attached to their ID lanyards. I complimented one and she shrugged, “Not on the scrubs so we think it’s okay.” The next time we saw each other her lanyard was bare. That dissent blocked, too.
More days passed. All aides in blue; all nurses in green, and a grim tightness in the staff.
My husband had been mainly sleeping and delirious that week, sweating through sheets and chucks, lost in his body full of broad-spectrum antibiotics, anti-virals, anti-fungals, chemo, Tylenol–and lacking in blood, plasma, platelets. A washcloth over his eyes that I ran under cold water every five minutes; the heat of his body dried it out so fast. I had been awake for days. On the seventh day, despair set in and I began to believe my husband would die of the fever. I felt heavy, buzzy, vigilant. It was close to midnight when our assigned nurse’s aide said she had to leave unexpectedly; someone from another floor would fill in for her.
I slept an hour or so and upon waking saw the new aide standing by my husband’s bed. Her back was to me but I heard her say, “I’m going to check your vitals now.” A Caribbean lilt, Guyanese or Trini. No comedy from my husband in his fevered state. He lay still. Parched and dazed. With gentleness, the aide fetched his arm and finger, placed the thermometer in his mouth. When she finished, she turned, and, stepping into the glow of the monitors, asked me if I needed anything.
I stared, not responding.
Her hair was dyed bright blue. To match her unimpeachably bright blue, rule-abiding scrubs. No jewelry or pins. Her eyebrows and sneakers—dyed the same bright blue. Nails, lips, eyeshadow: bright blue. Against her deep brown skin, in colored contacts, her eyes shone. Bright blue.
I sat up and laughed. She had taken that mandate and complied so hard she came out the other side into freedom. When she laughed back, one of her front teeth was revealed. Bright blue. A sticker shaped to the contours of her tooth. Shiny. Iridescent as trout. Glinting in her smile. I laughed so hard then I dipped into that place where laughter and tears overlap. I laughed and cried and the aide did the same, as if she had been waiting for someone to fully appreciate her protest, her style. Her genius. We clutched each other’s hands, cackling like old friends with a thousand private jokes.
I never saw her again. I think about her all the time.
3.
Still life, in memory: a grapefruit on a shelf of our fridge at West 16th Street.
I had always craved art. Realistic, figurative art. Sculptures, landscapes, portraits.
Honey-yellow with an undertone of pink, darkest in the dimpling. The mighty grapefruit’s enzymes interact with medications; I had bought that one to celebrate the end of my husband’s three-year course of heavy chemo. For two weeks, the grapefruit sat on the shelf. The day it needed to be eaten to stay delicious, my husband’s leukemia relapsed.
I remember the weight of it in my hand before releasing it into the compost; after weeks in the hospital, we returned home, the grapefruit once more verboten. I was thirty-nine. We had just been advised, again, that life—this life, our life—was too perilous for reproduction. I canceled my fertility appointments, took an open-ended leave of absence from work, borrowed money, and prepared to move us to Houston for a bone marrow transplant.
In Houston, we lived in the hospital for thirty days, then an apartment with shuttle service to the cancer center where we spent eight hours a day, six days a week for 150 days. My ability to cry had shriveled, disappeared. I was so efficient, present, and functional that I was given discounts at the hospital cafeteria, mistaken for permanent staff.
Once a week, I took a small break. I changed from sweats to bright colored dresses, dangly earrings. My cousin who lives in Houston picked me up and took me to a museum. I had always craved art. Realistic, figurative art. Sculptures, landscapes, portraits. Museum plaques meaty with information.
In Houston, my tastes shifted. I craved abstract art—color, shape, texture. Looking at it, I felt, for the first time, that you bring the whole of yourself to a painting as much as the painting brings itself to you. I stopped reading plaques. Standing in front of abstract art, I felt my feelings push against my skin. I witnessed the paintings. Was witnessed back.
Every Friday, my cousin and I visited a different museum for two hours. We started with the Rothko Chapel. Fourteen wall-sized paintings in various shades of black tinted greyish purple—in concert with the grackles flirting outside. A comforting space: coffin-dark; womb-cushioned. We pilgrimaged to two sets of James Turrell windows: light spilling past the melted edges of rectangles. Holy, sepulcher sky. We visited the Cy Twombly Gallery most often. That bone-whiteness. That clarity. Ferocious graphite scribbles. Fecund greens. The one painting like a wound, the pulpy red and purple: my chest throbbed in response. And my favorite: Say Goodbye Catullus, to the Shores of Asia Minor: 1994. The year my husband and I got together, when I was nineteen and he was twenty-two. The painting spans a gallery wall: 52 feet long, 13 feet high. Large-scale color explosions on a glowing white expanse. Back and forth in front of it, I walked, my steps intentional, devotional. Dedicated to me. Not matched to my husband’s in empathy or constraint. A gift to my body. The colors, distinct, even as they blended in hurricane swirls. Atom bomb clouds. Giant sneezes. I meditated on them, squinted at the scribbled words, memorizing imperfectly. At the east end: How to gaze beyond the bitter duration. At the west: Us the most fleeting, once for each thing, and we too, just once and never again.
One Friday, my cousin wasn’t able to join me. I decided to keep my appointment.
First, I did things to keep my husband alive. I ran magnesium through his IV, flushed and
Heparanized his port-lines, showered him, sterile-cleaned his wounds, applied steroid and Aquaphor to the entirety of his skin to soothe the GVHD. I sterilized dishes, sheets, towels, blankets, and fed my husband—a two-hour process of steely coaxing on my part and pained recalcitrance on his. We worked on a puzzle, read letters from friends and family. We walked to the parking garage and back: one hallway and two small stairs. An hour of tiny steps. I held him as he wept, settled him for a nap, then drove to the Menil.
It was empty. The New Yorker in me marveled, rejoiced. Then rankled ten minutes later when two other women entered the space, one of them speaking nonstop.
Domineering, theatrical. Blonde, blue-eyed with a bright pink sunburn across her cheeks and nose. Her companion was small-boned, androgynously dressed in grey, and moved with caution, her black hair cut close to her scalp. She walked in step with the white woman, not saying anything. I was trying to get lost in a Janet Sobel, a tangle and splatter of lavender-red-brown. Behind me, the blonde woman described a different piece in minute, specific detail, loud, as if her opinion on the art was worth more than anyone else’s. As if the Asian woman was not standing next to her, looking at the same thing. I sighed and as I walked closer to the women, the blonde still monologuing, I heard the Asian woman ask, “What’s at the top left corner?” Which confused me. She seemed to be already gazing at the top, left corner. I looked into her face. It was rapt with reverence and gratitude. She was listening deeply. She was blind.
For the next hour, I stayed behind them at a non-intrusive distance but close enough to hear the guided viewing. Paintings translated, paintings as narratives, paintings in words. When the blonde woman said, “The next one is a landscape,” or “This one’s a portrait,” the blind woman responded, “No, thank you. Just the abstract.”
We were kin.
I stayed behind them at a non-intrusive distance but close enough to hear the guided viewing.
I tailed them to a 3-D sculpture on canvas, a piece I had moved past earlier without interest. So much color but the blonde woman hardly mentioned it. She said “black,” “blue,” “yellow” the way I say “and” “the” “to.” She described intricate angles and curves in conversation. What juxtaposed and overlapped, crossed and paralleled. She used directional terms: “90 degrees southeast,” and, “on a longitudinal plane.” She didn’t describe the piece’s emotion or mood; she took those tones into her voice. Part actor, part historian, part scientist. About a section of crossed wooden slabs, she said there was a “brittle squishiness” as if the wood might feel like a dry sponge. Hearing her, I felt I had touched the painting.
They came to the Janet Sobel I had been trying to fall into. Mostly color to my eyes. The blonde woman described splatter shapes and brushstroke widths, giving precise measurements in centimeters. Instead of “red,” she said: “like biting into tomatoes.” Instead of green: “lying face-down in grass after rain.” Color as somatic simile. A kind of poetic, hardware store syntax. She said that Janet Sobel had been a New York housewife who started painting as a grandmother—self-taught. She pioneered the drip-spatter-technique that Jackson Pollock adopted and became famous for while Janet was forgotten, uncredited. Music had inspired her to paint.
The blind woman stood unmoving in front of the piece. Her face lit with attention and tenderness. I realized I had tears on my cheeks. The blind woman said, “I used to feel insulted in museums. Hurt. A public space that didn’t include me.”
The women hugged, merged with the painting.
As they wandered into the next room, I sat down on a bench and saw myself sitting there, an abstraction. Framed by bone and flesh. Letting what was outside, in. I wondered how the blonde woman might describe me. Metaphors, measurements? Shoelace squiggles. Limes on fire. East, west slashes. Blue as a metal railing in winter, thirty degrees off a five-centimeter gap shaped like a trampled daisy.
Sitting there. Alive, complicated, beautiful.








